Monday 3 December 2012

Madrid

Our last stop on our Toussaint holiday was Madrid, the Spanish capital. I was especially excited for Madrid because my friend Lisa was living in Madrid as an english teaching assistant. Now, I'm going to be honest, Madrid did not live up to experiences in San Sebastian and did not play into the easy going spanish atmosphere I had expected and gotten to know in San Sebastian. Madrid is a big busy city and the rain did not help at all. Having said that I may have not fallen in love with the city but I did have some amazing experiences there!

After the night that we arrived in Madrid my friend lisa informed me that we would be taking a short train ride out of Madrid to a town named San Lorenzo de El Escorial which is known for The Royal Seat of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. This is a huge royal site that acts as a monastery, palace, museum and school. For our visit we signed up for a tour of the grounds which was pretty interesting, the only problem was that Lisa and I were struggling with heavy eye lids that became obvious when the tour guide called us out on it, she was quite kind about it actually. Luckily Lisa's friend was wide awake holding strong for the both of us. 
We learned quite a few interesting facts like how the Philippines was named after the king Philip II of Spain.



We got to see an original of the cartography of the time. I took a picture of the map cause I was so fascinated by not only the nations, the devision of land and the names but mostly of how Australia is basically Antarctica at the south end of the world.



Unfortunately (I hate this) we were not allowed to take pictures anywhere in the Palace or the Basilicas so all my pictures are from the exterior but take my word for it, everything was so decadent. They did not go short on anything. The craziest part was the crypt where all the caskets were made of black marble with gold detailing and the entire room followed suit. The basilicas was equally as extravagant 



After the palace we made our hungry way back into Madrid where we went for some traditional Paella and Churros. I absolutely love Spain's obsession with chocolate as I share it. There is even a place in Madrid where you can get a cup of pure melted chocolate and just drink it! TOO GOOD!


The next day we spent the day walking around Madrid and admiring all the architecture! It's all so beautiful and so different from what I am used to seeing in France. Unfortunately the days were quite grey and gloomy so all the vibrant spirit of france was lost under the rain and the umbrellas. Having said that, there was still something beautiful about it's sadness.






My last day in Madrid was definitely the best of all the days! I went to the Reina Sofia Museum of Modern Art. I got to see beautiful pieces by Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali and so many more Spanish artists! It's cool how the spanish esthetic is so apparent in the work of every spaniard. Something so uniquely spanish bleeds from each artist.


The Museum is set up in a way that takes you through the modern history of the country and works are organized in such a way that describes the struggle of the spanish people. I felt that laying out the exhibits in this way really captured me. As I am someone who really loves the story of human struggle, I felt like I could follow along and that the paintings of artists I had never heard of meant so much more to me! I would recommend this museum to anyone passing through Madrid! A must visit!



After the Museum I met up with Lisa as we had a dinner date. We went out to this cute Cuban restaurant. It was decked out with Cuban pictures and memorabilia. Even the food was reminiscent of our Cuban experience... although I'm not sure if that is a good thing. After dinner we had reservations at a Flamenco dance show. This was very exciting for me as I've waited my whole life to see a legit Flamenco show! Both Lisa and I were very impressed by the whole thing. This dance possesses so much power and passion. You can see, hear and feel it in every step, every clap, every stare. I really did love it and I know that when I return to Spain in February that I will be going to see another for sure!



I can't say Madrid is my favorite city but I am definitely very happy to have experienced it. It is a big busy city and it definitely looses some of it's spanish charm within it all, but there are definitely hidden gems throughout it all which should not go unseen. If you are ever planning on visiting Madrid I would recommend that you do your research and come with a plan on what to do and see, as the sights and attractions are what make the city.




Monday 26 November 2012

San Sebastian & Bilbao

After Biarritz our next stop was San Sebastian. We had heard great things about this city so we were very excited to finally arrive. San Sebastian is part of the Spanish Basque region. It is also the culinary capital of Spain and home to the second and third (and a few more spots) best rated 50 restaurants in the world. Alongside the great cuisine, the views were remarkable, the people were friendly, and our hostel, Olga's Place, is easily one of the best hostels I had ever visited!

Firs thing was first, we arrived at our hostel, Olga's Place, early in the day, where we immediately felt at home. They prepped us on all the city had to offer and recommended that the next morning we go to a tiny little Pinchos bar across the street where we could get, what they claimed to be, the best tortillas (spanish omelette) in town. So the next morning, we woke up bright and early to get our eating on. The torillas at this bar were unbelievable. It basically left my mouth watering for more. Every morning I had to pace myself, not to fill up on one thing in order to see what the whole city could offer... and yes we had one every morning at 1.60 euros a piece, pretty cheap breakfast.


After our first breakfast, we made our way into the city. The city is pretty much devided into three main sections; Old Town, Shopping Quarters, and the coastal bend. I enjoyed spending most of my time in the old town because I have no money to shop with :( Within the older city you come across many Pinchos bars, churches, and little shops. There was one particular church I fell in love with, the Basilica de Santa Maria del Coro. I love all the detailing at the entrance of the church, so extravagant and beautiful.   

As you make your way out of old town you will find yourself along the bending cost, and harbour, of which you can capture a beautiful view from atop a small mountain bearing a huge Jesus statue, similar to the famous, Cristo Redento in Brazil.


Walking up the hill was such a treat. Although it was a short walk, it provided such a beautiful view of San Sebastian. Vanja and I took a rest mid way up to sit and enjoy the view. Sometimes when traveling you are running around and trying to see as much as you possibly can that you forget to take a moment to take it all in. I often find that I rely on photos to enjoy the scenery, but I definitely need to start putting the camera down more often and really take it all in for myself.


After you descend the mountain and walk around the harbour you will find yourself on the beach. It was a beautiful day - not nice enough for tanning but definitely sunny enough for an ice cream on the beach.






While sitting on the beach we began to hear our tummies call and decided it's time to head back in the old town for some of those delicious Pinchos. Pinchos are basically little bite size portions, more commonly known as tapas costing anywhere between one to five euros. They normally have them all laid out on the bar table, ready for you to pic and choose which of the delicious, mouth watering pinchos you desire. Generally spaniards will go to bars right before siesta, grab a glass of wine and stand at the bar while they snack away, but tourists? we go bar to bar trying to stuff our bellies with as much as we can before going home for a nap!


After our long day of strolling... and eating, we headed back to our hostel for some pasta and wine. The hostel organized a casual outing every evening so for the second evening we headed out to a bar in old town for some beers and cocktails with fellow travelers.

The following day Vanja and I woke up early, got our things together, went down to grab a slice of delicious tortilla and then power walked to catch our bus to Bilbao. Bilbao, pronounced bil-BAH-o, is the largest city in the spanish basque region, it is also home to one of the famous Guggenheim Museums which is basically what we were going to see. I have a small traveling goal which is to visit all the Guggenheim museums. I have Bilbao and New york checked off, so all that is left is... Berlin, Venice and Abu Dhabi. The bus ride out to Bilbao was approximately an hour and cost 10 euros, one way.  
The Guggenheim Bilbao Museum is a contemporary art museum. The building itself was designed by a Canadian-American architect named Frank Gehry. The Museum showcases, staying and visiting exhibits by both Spanish and International artists. The architecture of the building is definitely the take away from the whole visit. It's mesmerizing. The structures outside the museum are just as intriguing as those found within. 
I would definitely recommend this to anyone visiting the area. 

Above from left to right: Tulip "Balloons" by American artist Jeff Coon, The Matter of Time by American sculptor Richard Serra, Karin Thiang by Canadian parents Kee & Rachel Thiang

The Salve Bridge, also designed by Frank Gehry


Tall Tree & The Eye, by Indian sculptor Anish Kapoor

After Bilbao we headed back to our hostel for what we thought would be a night of snacking and relaxing... that did not happen. When we got to the hostel, everyone was getting ready to go out for Halloween, so being the social butterflies that we are, we immediately tossed our bag of chips aside for our dancing shoes. The wonderful owners of Olga's place proposed that they take us out for some delicious pinchos at a tiny restaurant just outside the downtown area of San Sebastian. When we got there we were greeted by delicious seafood pinchos. You're probably wondering where all the pictures of the food are but don't worry, I'm saving them all for a blog completely dedicated to foods I've been so lucky to try. After the pinchos the owner of the restaurant told everyone to pipe down, to our confusion he began to belt out some intense notes and then began an impromptu flamenco dance... or some sort of spanish dancing. 


These are, really, the moments that make spending all the money on traveling worth it! You can plan your journey, book your tickets, and hit all the famous sights but as they say "Life is what happens when you're busy making plans"

As our time in San Sebastian was beginning to wrap up, we said our goodbyes to the wonderful people we met and definitely thanked Olga's place for the wonderful accommodations and hospitality! San Sebastian is definitely going down in my books as one of my favorite cities and one of the best experiences thus far. Off to Madrid we went.  



Sunday 11 November 2012

Biarritz

After spending two nights in Toulouse, my friend Vanja and I were on our way to Biarritz! We had only heard wonderful things about this small town. I have a soft spot for all surf towns because they always remind me of my boyfriend, so when I heard about Biarritz I knew I had to check it out. We took the train from Toulouse to Biarritz, which is always fun because not only do you get to see the country side, but you get to discover other beautiful towns, that you otherwise would never have thought to visit. For instance we past by Lourdes and I instantly became fascinated and now I am definitely making plans to visit. The views from your train seat are sometimes more beautiful than when you're actually walking around the towns themselves.

As we came into Biarritz Vanja and began to feel the excitement as we saw surfers with surf boards in hand coming and going from the train station. We hopped on the bus, checked into our hotel and were in and out of our room within minutes. We only had the rest of the day, and the next early morning in Biarritz so we really needed to make the most of our time.

The minute we stepped out and could see the sea we understood what all the hype was about. This tiny little town holds more WOW! than you could imagine. The coast line was like something out of a magazine. It couldn't be more perfect and more serene if it tried. Seeing all the surfers out in the sea and the cafes that lined the coast just made me want to stay here forever. I could only imagine the life you could live there. We were lucky enough to arrive on bright sunny day when the air was fresh and crisp.


Biarritz is also considered part of French Basque country which, I think, is why the architecture seems a little different from traditional French architecture, it could also be the proximity to the spanish boarder. Basque is quite interesting in that it is a language with no linguistic ties to any other language and their community, much like Quebec, has for years held on to their culture and have tried to separate several times. Our next stop, San Sebastian, is a city located in the Spanish Basque region

After our first day in Biarritz we couldn't wait to wake up bright and early the next day and take to more beaches and coastline views!!! The next morning we headed up the opposite direction and found ourselves at another beach. This beach line wasn't quite as grand but definitely just as beautiful. This particular beach was located at the bottom of a cliff, so there weren't any cafes and shops that surrounded it. Instead it seemed like the place to go for surf schools. The sea was filled with morning surf classes. I so badly wanted to get into the water and join them, but I didn't bring my wetsuit! I was so lucky to get to see one of the most amazing homes and now my dream home, which sat right on the beach. I don't know who lives in this house but how badly I wish it was me!


As our stroll came to an end we had to say good bye to Biarritz and catch our next train to San Sebastian!






Saturday 10 November 2012

Toulouse

So France is this amazing country where students get a ridiculous amount of time off school. I was one month into my assistantship when before I knew it, it was Toussaint, a two week holiday! I decided that during this two week holiday I would go visit my lovely friend Lisa in Madrid who was doing a similar teaching assistant program there. On my way to Madrid I would stop in three towns; Toulouse, Biarritz and San Sebastian!

My journey began quite rocky on my way to Toulouse when I got to the train station in Montpellier and found out all the trains were delayed by at least a half hour, some an hour. I tried to save myself a few euros by purchasing an evening train at eight which quickly backfired since, with all the delays I wouldn't be arriving to Toulouse until midnight. In all the delays my particular train got canceled and so I had to hop onto a train to Bordeaux which was stopping in Toulouse as well. Luckly with my phone plan I get unlimited calls to Canada so I took this opportunity to make some phone calls back home!

When I finally arrived in Toulouse, it was go go go. My friend Vanja picked me up from the train station, we quickly headed over to her resident shared apartment, dropped my bags off and took to the streets of Toulouse. It was fun meeting assistants in Toulouse. We went to a house party then headed on out to the clubs... only problem is we didn't get into any until about three in the morning.

The next morning Vanja and I decided that a nice day of walking aimlessly and doing some window shopping was in order. We started by visiting La Basilique de Saint-Sernin. This church was built in 1120 which is incredibly old when you really think about it. The church is huge and decadent. ! found it to be very unique, in it's structure, design and the way the interior is decorated. I love visiting churches because I find them so extra, and over the top.


After the church journeyed into the heart of the city. We stopped in Capitole which is this huge plaza, which unfortunately was being used up for some city event, so I wasn't able to capture a proper photo. It seemed this was the main square to hold city events since, while I was there they had something going on for children and then the next day a marathon that ended at Capitole. None the less it's very beautiful.



The rest of Toulouse really spoke for it's self. With it's lively streets and it's vibrant student culture. It's a young city, perfect for anyone looking for that city life. Toulouse's architecture is absolutely stunning, I found it to be some of my favorite out of all the French cities I have been to. Every corner was more decorated than the last, and as my friend kept pointing out, there were hidden alleys leading to even more beauty. The doors, the windows, each with it's unique character... in true french style. I was told that Toulouse is referred to as France's rose city, because of it's red tinted buildings.



I really did enjoy my time in Toulouse and looking forward to one day returning. It was unfortunate that my time there was cut short but there is so much more of France to see. I find that I can never seem to spend enough time at each city! I guess I'm just gonna have to look underneath the couch cushions  for some spare time to return.


Thursday 8 November 2012

Paris


So a while ago I headed out to Paris for the weekend, to see my mom <3 and to catch up with some old friends from Australia. Because of the weather and because I have plans to return to Paris as a true tourist, I refrained from doing most of the touristy things. Having said that, it's almost impossible to be in Paris and not to stumble across magnificent sights and beauty. Walking through Paris is literally like walking through a text book. History at every corner!

When I arrived in Paris, my friend's friend picked me up from Gare De Lyon on his Moto taxi. Moto Taxis are basically taxis that are motorcycles. They are ultra fast because they weave through Parisian traffic with such ease. I am scared to death from motorcycles, but I must say it was fun!

When I got to my hotel, I finally was reunited with my mother! It was so nice to see her, and in true mother daughter fashion we took to arguing almost immediately. So nice to be back with my mother!

We took off into the streets of Paris, with no plan and complete confusion. We found ourselves quite close to the Notre Dame. I was so excited to finally see the church of all churches! I've always been a fan of everything Gothic being a fan of Marilyn Manson :P I was really taken away by it's beauty and stunned by it's size... which would be a reoccurring feeling as I discovered more and more of Paris.  My whole life I was always shown pictures of the Notre Dame from the front, but I had no idea that from behind it was just as beautiful and even more striking. This just goes to show that a picture never beats the real deal.


The next day was our full day in Paris, so my mother and I got up early and set out on an intense day of sight seeing. We found that the best way to get around the city was via Metro. The Metro in Paris seems complicated at first, especially being from a 3 line Subway system in Toronto, but it's actually super simple. We used the Metro to get us close to Montmartre, which is the highest point in Paris. It is also the location of the breathtaking Sacré Coeur.


When I came up to the Sacré Coeur and got to take my first look at it, I was speechless, it was so expansive and stunning. By far one of those moments in life where you stop in your tracks and are forced to just stand there and stare. I was definitely star struck. You think you've seen all that could amaze you for the day and then you turn around and see this wonderful view of Paris. All of a sudden you understand what all the hype, what all the romance, what all the adoration, is about. Paris literally takes your breath away time after time!


 After Monmartre we made our way back down to leveled ground and walked all the way to Galeries Lafayette. I knew we had arrived when we saw the sea of asians holding Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and whatever other designer name bags. The mall was radiant and beautiful but way too busy for my liking, and it's not like I could afford anything anyways.

After Galleries Lafayette my mother and I found the rain to be too much for us to take anymore, so we decided a museum was in order. We went to Museé d'Orsey, and when we got there, the lines were snaking around the entire building. My mother and I thought, there is no way we are waiting in this. On our way out we noticed a news stand that had a sign that said, Museé tickets available here, so my mother went and asked what it was about, turns out he was selling tickets for the same price and with these tickets you get line bypass. So obviously we bought them and made our way right into the Museum.

Museé d'Orsey is an old train station that has been turned into a museum. The museum carries paintings from the turn of the 19th century into the 20th and is well known for it's extensive collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art pieces. I'm one of those people who loves seeing art works up close and personal. A simple copy never seems to be good enough. I remember the first time I saw my first Frida Kahlo pieces in real life. I was mesmerized and overly ecstatic by it's realness. I felt the same way in this case when I got to see more Van Gogh and Monet. The Museum itself sets the perfect atmosphere to be surrounded by such master pieces. By far one of my favorite Museums to date. I don't know if the Louvre will be able to out do d'Orsey for me.

Three hours later the rain settled and my mother and I had an art overload, we decided to get back out there and see some more of Paris. We walked over to La Place de la Concorde, this is where the huge Obelisk stands, it's the most common starting point of the Champs-Élyseé and about a million more things. It's such an intense spot! Thinking about all the blood that was shed here during the revolution and the fact that both Mary Antoinette and Louis XVI were both executed right there is just so much to take in! Standing in history, literally! So much of history happened here and it's just so cool to finally be standing right there.

From La Place de la Concorde we began to make our way down Les Champs-Élyseé, the crowds of people who make their way down this street is overwhelming. Cameras snapping away, huge stores, cafes, it all very much resembled New York's 5th Avenue. When my mom and I finally made it to the end I found myself in front of what I had been waiting to see since learning about it for the first time in grade four. I was finally standing in front of the l'Arc de Triomphe! I remember falling in love with this monument when I was nine years old, learning about the history of Paris and about Napoleons erection of the monument after his victory of the Battle of Austrelitz. I think I fell in love with it simply because while all the other students were fascinated by Le Tour Eiffel, I decided I just had to be different. For some reason my love for the l'Arc never faded and up until now I still find it so beautiful! As with everything else in Paris I was taken away by it's size, photos do not do it justice. It was humungous. I didn't climb up into the L'arc cause I know I will be returning to Paris in the spring so while I got to see l'Arc de Triomphe, my anticipation and hunger for discovery is not yet satisfied!


My day of exploring Paris was coming to an end, as later in the evening I was going out to a night club and the next day I was to spend the day with some friends! Paris is an amazing city, and lives up to it's reputation. It's crazy busy but worth all the hussle! I can't wait to return in the spring and see a less grey city and even more of Paris

And I know what you're thinking... where is the Eiffel Tower?? I think I'm the only person in the world who goes to Paris for the first time and doesn't go to see the Eiffel Tower. I guess just one more thing for me to do upon my return!